Summary

A compact, but excellent crag. Home to probably the best sport routes on the island. The rock is a hard limestone, reaching heights of 28m. The crag is split into several sectors and in such a way that it is always possible to climb in the shade.
Directions:To find the crag, follow the B6 heading east from Pafos. About 14km east of Pafos, take the F616 road northwards situated just east of the AsproKemmos dam (signposted Mamonia, Agios Georgios, Agios Nikolaos). Continue on this road following the line of the Dhiarizos river for 10km. Continue through Agios Georgios and for another 4km, passing the Extreme View cafe. The crag becomes visible a few hundred metres further as the road drops down. Obvious parking area on the left.
Aspect:Faces all directions. Always something in the shade (or the sun). Timings are based on summer hours.
Google Maps:Click to locate on Google Maps
Notes:Great all year round crag. Takes a day or so to dry out after sustained rain (rare).
Busy (by Cyprus standards) at weekends and holidays during the Spring and Autumn.
The Extreme View Cafe, located 1 km back up the road to Pafos, is highly recommended.

Please be aware that birds sometimes nest in the top of the crack a third of the way up Khoros tis Siopis (main slab) and in the top of the flake half-way up Kalitechnis (main wall). Try to avoid these routes if it looks like this has happened (usually April through May).

Accommodation:If you need accommodation during your stay, then check out the Amazing Cyprus Glamping Domes just 1km from Kourtelorotsos, on the right towards Kidasi.
Route Summary:65 sport (3 to 7c+)
Sector Plan:For sector plan click here
Printable List:Click here for a printer friendly route list.
Route Profile:31
44
5a6
5b7
5c3
5c+2
6a1
6a+5
6b2
6b+3
6c7
6c+5
7a8
7a+6
7b2
7b+1
7c+2

Route List

Top Parking Area

Short vertical to mildly overhanging wall containing a couple of (very) sharp, but worthwhile routes. Located at the top parking area up the short bank. Gets sun from around mid-day

1 Alex Drastico F6c+ 9m
Steep, short, bouldery route with nice (if painful) moves.
2 Alchemistis F7a 14m
Similar to Alex Drastico, except more so. One for the masochists.
3 <Unknown> F3 15m
This can be found about 8m to the right of the previous two, hidden by the trees. Easy but pleasant climbing. Suitable for nervous beginners or young children.

Corner Sector

Vertical wall containing a small number of high quality routes. From the top parking area, follow the short upwards path on the left for about 10m. The corner sector is on the right, partly hidden by trees. Gets the sun from around 14:00 during the summer. The sector is also home to a number of worthwhile eliminates/variations.

1 Kavouras F6a+ 13m
A great route. The bulge at halfway is quite powerful and feels surprisingly committing for a sports route.
2 Kavourina F6a+ 13m
Yet another classic. A delicate and sustained crimp-fest.
3 Epea Pteroenda F6b+ 15m
Even better than the previous two. Another varied route.
4 Esieksiksi F7a 13m
Something of a disappointment after the previous three.

Main Slab

Easy angled slab containing most of the Diarizos low grade routes. Follow directions for Corner Sector but continue into the main bit of the crag. Gets the sun from around 10:30, then gradually gets the shade from mid-afternoon.

1 Paidiki hara F4 16m
Slightly contrived route up the crack on left side of the crag. Better done as a moderate trad climb starting at the base of the crack proper.
2 Kokhylaki F4 16m
Tricky start leads to pleasant face climbing.
3 Oceanis F5a 16m
Committing start proves to be the crux.
4 Tarantoula F5a 16m
Nice and easy until the final bolt, whereupon watch out for the sting of the tarantula.
New route (as of Nov 22) just to the right of Tarantoula (not shown ) - Lollipop, 4+.
5 Neraidi F5c+ 18m
Tough start then easy to the top. Easier (5b+) if started on the ledge next to Tarantoula.
6 Katsufis F5b 16m
Difficult start leads to easier ground.
7 Monopati tou nerou F5a 18m
More nice face climbing, with well bolted crux at mid height.
New route (as of Nov 22) just to the right of Monopati tou nerou (not shown ) - Slap Me, 5c+.
8 Parthena F5b 18m
Classic of the slab area (ignore the detractors) Overcome the crux at two thirds height via finger jams and sketchy feet placements. Feels more like 5c if your technique isn't up to the task. Note This route is not suitable for groups of beginners, especially if wearing inappropriate shoes - erosion is becoming a problem at the crux.
9 Skias Onar F5b 18m
Interesting climbing just right of Parthena. Taking the bulge direct is preferred.
10 Horos tis Siopis F5b 18m
Take the smooth wall right of Skias Onar and climb to the top of the large flake. Tricky moves leads to the bulge which is taken on its right edge.
11 Yia ola afta pou dhen tha do F5b 17m
Really nice route, quite complicated in its reading. One of the best of a good bunch. Possibly 5c?
12 Molyvenia Dhiathesi F5b 17m
Easy climbing until a featureless lozenge shape is reached. This can prove difficult for the short.
13 Yia ola ekho agapisi F5b 17m
Follows quite close to previous route, with crux at similar height. If you outflank it by moving right of the bolts then only award yourself 5a.
14 Apiasti Elevtheria F5a 17m
Another nice slab route - climb straight up taking the bulge either left or right.
15 Elevthero Pnevma F5a 17m
Climb up the initial flake/crack, move slightly right to below a small bulge at half height. Either take this direct (harder) or make a nice traverse left, up, then back right. Continue to the top with ease.
16 Good Companie F5a 18m
Route to the right of Elevthero Pnevma. Nice and balancy.
17 No Climbing F4 19m
Route to the right of Elevthero Pnevma.
18 El Cartel F4 20m
Route on the far right of the sector. More 3-dimensional than most of the routes here.

Main Wall

Vertical to mildly overhanging wall, containing high quality technical and fingery routes. Located in main arena, opposite the slab. Gets the sun until around 13:30 during summer, then nice and shady.

1 Taxidhi mualou F7b 20m
2 Apondes fili F7a+ 22m
3 Aetofolia F6b 22m
Excellent route with several hard sections. Leave something in the tank for the tuffa at the top.
4 Kalitechnis F6a 22m
Another excellent route and the easiest of the ones on this wall. The crux is between the third and fourth bolts and is quite technical.
5 Guru F6c 23m
Excellent route on positive holds with a crux high up.
6 Stefanos Directe F7a+ 26m
Starts between Mitsaki and Guru, traverses right to finish just left of The Italian Job. Not as direct as the name implies.
7 Mitsaki F7a 24m
More vertical technical crimpy climbing. Difficult to work out crux.
8 The Italian Job F7a 25m
Excellent route that takes the steepest ground on this sector. Gets gradually harder and harder until the overhanging flake is gained. A couple of strong pulls over this then romp to the top. Not easy to clean due to it sharing the lower off with Mageia.
9 Mageia F7a 25m
An oustanding route, varied and takes the one obvious natural line on this wall. The first half is straight forward, but with nice moves. The technical crux is the slightly overhanging and blank wall above, split by the narrowest of cracks. This is followed by powerful moves over an overhang, followed by thankfully easier climbing to the top. Was 6c+, but now given 7a after the loss of a key jug at the end of the crux.
10 Una faccia una razza F7a+ 25m
Starts up what was reputed to be a trad route, but continues beyond this on the steep orange wall on increasingly poor holds until the angle eases.
11 El Camino del Ray F7b+ 28m
Hardest route on the main wall. Takes the line just left of Kypseli with sustained climbing up to the highest point on the wall. Bouldery crux section at around mid height.
12 Kipseli F6c 23m
Takes the wall close to the beehive - take care if they are active!
13 Play the Blues F7a+ 28m
New route between Kypseli and Microcosmos. Grade to be confirmed. Longest route on the Main Wall.
14 Microcosmos F7a 26m
Another sustained technical route. Includes some pleasant burly moves.
15 A-Works F6c 26m
New route right of Microcosmos. Sustained, technical and fingery.
16 No pump F6a+ 24m
Great route on the far right of the sector. Ironic name as it is very pumpy for the grade (although cheeky rests can be made by scuttling right onto the arete proper). Undergraded?

Road Sector Hidden

Slabby wall containing two OK routes. From the main arena (containing the Main Slab and Wall sectors) follow the short path down towards the road, then turn left (before reaching the road). Gradually gets shade from mid-afternoon.

1 Kolos tou daskalou F5c+ 18m
The first of the two routes.
2 Oi re daskale F5c 15m
The second of the two routes. Slightly easier than its sister route (as implied by the name).

Road Sector Main

The (mostly) vertical wall facing the road contains several quality (if sharp) crimpy routes. Located next to the small road parking area facing onto the road. Gets the sun from around 10:30.

1 Ta 3 gourounakia F5c 22m
Hidden high up the slope on the left of this wall. Difficult moves to begin with then easy moves to the very top of the crag. Essentially ungradeable.
2 Amore Inglese F6c 25m
Hard and sharp start, Easy-ish second half.
3 Slovakian Inspiration F6c 26m
Another good 6c.
4 O ksechasmenos F7a 26m
Don't forget the route a little to the left of Hara Kiri. Nice moves, sustained, and not so sharp as some of the routes on this wall.
5 Hydraulics F7b 25m
Nice climbing, slightly sharp crux.
6 Harakiri F6a+ 26m
A stonking route. Tricky start leads up to brilliant flake and crack system. Finish up a short steep wall which has a bit of a sting in the tail. A classic.
7 Desert Rose F6c 28m
Really nice route with a bouldery crux at one third height; take on the left of the bulge for full tick; deduct half a grade if go right close to Midheia.
8 Midheia F6b+ 28m
Sharp in parts, which combined with its steepness, makes care with hand placements essential. Good route nevertheless.
9 6a+ my ass F6b 26m
Tricky crux at half height.
10 This is not a circus F6c+ 25m
Another hard 6c.
11 Skoini Theatrou F6c+ 25m
Tricky and awkward climbing. Some looseness so take care. Worth noting that anything you pull off is likely to land in the middle of the main road.

Road Sector Minor

The short wall at the other side of the road from Road Sector Main contains a short, bouldery route. Take care from the traffic! Shady most of the day.

1 Fairytale gone bad F6c+ 9m
Short, powerful, route up the steep wall right next to the road (best to time your attempts when there isn't a bus or lorry approaching!).

Picnic Area Main

This lies on the South side, just off the road. Technical face climbing gives way to steeper, more powerful options. Shade in summer until after mid-day.

1 Ergatiki F5c 12m
Start at undercut area at the left of the crag. Trend up and right. Difficult move, especially for the short, at third height. Then straight forward climbing to the top.
2 M & Ms F6a+ 16m
Nice route up to the highest point on the crag. For the 6a+ grade climb slightly left near to top to join Egatiki. Finish direct (tricky for the short) and collect 6b.
3 Megisti Dhinami F6c 16m
Great sustained route up the rightward trending cracks. Finish direct up the steep slab.
4 Mama's Slab F7c+ 16m
Hard blank slab to the right of the crack.
5 Kruzaki F6b+ 16m
Straight forward climbing leads to an owl hole feature. Make a difficult big move. Continue with difficulty to the top. Again trickier for the short.
6 Andristrofi Metrisi F7a 12m
A short sharp shock.
7 Kalamaras F7a+ 10m
Another overhanging bouldery horror.
8 Little Ninja F7c+ 14m
Powerful, bouldery route up the steepest part of the overhang. Probably the hardest route at Diarizos.

Picnic Area Hidden

Around the corner from Picnic Area Main is a hidden wall with a couple of short tricky, and not entirely pleasant, routes. Located to the right of the main Pinic area, in a cleft between two rock faces.

1 Zivania Sunrise F6c+ 8m
So-so short technical route in the 'hidden' sector.
2 Climbing Den F7a+ 8m
Hard short technical route in the 'hidden' sector.